mount sill southwest slope

Two hours later, I forced myself into my gear and out of my tent to check on the others only to find that they had slept poorly as well. David and I had arrived at 11:30 PM on Friday to a quiet campsite. I moved south across the bowl before coming to the steep chute straight up to Glacier Notch. Polemonium Glacier terminates in this basin. Next day it was my intent to climb Mt. I had both, but left them at camp, unfortunately. FA 1960 by Tom Condon and Fred Kipfelsberger. Much talus is encountered on this approach.3) To gain the Southwest slope of Mount Sill, you may hike the SF of Big Pine Creek up to Elinore Lake and then on over Scimitar Pass (~13,200ft). FA 1903 by Joseph LeConte, James Moffitt, James Hutchinson, and Robert Pike. FA 1933 by Lewis Clark, Ted Waller, Julie Mortimer, and Jack Reigelhuth. From Potluck, we could have contoured left to small campsites near a small stream at 12,500'' for base camp - but not knowing this, following Roper's advice we descended to the right down a ledge (but only 1 ledge) to steep scree and quickly down to easier terrain. From its top, the L-shaped snowfield that marks the base of Mount Sill can be seen. This moderate slope has a nasty near vertical bluff between the Pass and the lake; subtly hidden from view when looking down the slope.  Running short on daylight I took the direct route down the bluff, Class 5.2 and with a heavy pack - very exciting.

Watch Queue Queue I told them about my adventure and they congratulated me with the last remaining beer David had packed. Victor had arrived shortly after and to my surprised, David had slipped passed me hiking up half a mile further before turning back. Thank you for the input Romain and the followup seano! Depending on conditions, ice axe and crampons are needed. The snow was quite soft that day. Mount Sill via North Couloir (personal account) - GPX FILERicardo Soria Jr. (writer) - Spring ascent following heavy snow season. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the. We took one of the chutes with reddish-brown rocks directly above the morraine below the glacier. Sill as planned.  So, all’s well that ends well - without any doubt in this case.  Spent a lazy morning in the sun, recovering from the ordeal and then headed out to the trailhead to spend the night sleeping in the vehicle, eating plenty and sinking a few warm beers.  The verdict:  Scimitar Pass is a feasible quick access to the southwestern side of the Palisade range, but it’s not an easy route, particularly loaded with overnight packs. Glacier Notch is a short loose gully. FA 1963 by John Mendenhall, Rich Gnagy, Burt Turney, and Genevieve Turney. The Pass low point lies to the north and 200’ below.  On the other side of this low point is Mount Jepson (13,390’).  The western side of the Pass leads down on moderate slopes to Glacier Lake.  Of course, nothing is as easy as it looks in the area. Climbing Mt Sill Via Southwest Slope.

My brother wanted to traverse right into gully # 4 which may (or may not) have been the right choice, but I continued on up #3. The views from its summit have been described as some of the best in the Sierra range most likely due to it being located on a sharp turning portion of the Sierra Crest.

We go back to camp at 6:30pm.People expecting an easy class 2 mountain should know that it's probably not going to be that easy. Information on winter/spring snow conditions can also be found on the web: Snowpack conditionsAvalanche Hazard (winter only). I pressed on toward the subsequent Lakes, at first focused on the goal of reaching camp. As I crossed the creek, there was a break in the clouds. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Indeed, R.J. Secor opines that, "Mount Sill has the best summit view of any peak in the Sierra." On the trail by 7:30 for what turns out to be a very tough day.  The distances and altitudes are hard to judge in the area.

I avoided injury by clinging to the wall of the chute and descending very slowy, and still ended up falling into the beeergschrund - fortunately it was only 4 feet deep instead of 20' deep straight down from where I was sliding earlier.

Class 3-4 solid granite rock scrambling to Mount Sill summit (final 500 feet). The winds followed me back to my tent where I again fell back asleep in full gear to wait out the cold. The lakes were so close together that I had completely lost track of which one I was passing. Lucy and I made it to Lake Elinore on the first day to setup a Base Camp near water.  A very beautiful location made all the better by the absence of other people, a blessing from the difficult access that keeps backpackers, horses and fishermen out of the area.  One expects only to find serious climbers camped at this location.  We started out next morning with a recce of the East Couloir of Mt Sill and the remote possibility of having time to make a summit bid using this route.  I was stumped by the schrund, a gaping crack across the entrance to the couloir; too wide and too deep.  So we dumped our climbing equipment at 12,700’ on the Sill Glacier and descended to Elinore for the night.Â. by Ricardo Soria Scimitar Pass is just frustrating. Ten years of my life searching for fulfillment of a dream that most would consider pointless. I should have come back the same route as this morning.  It was great weather all day but disappointing not getting even an attempt at a peak.  Next time I’ll camp much higher and further into the range, but not over Contact Pass if I can find another way. Be prepared for difficult conditions and to assess avalanche potential if you head up in the winter. Mount Sill - Access South Slope from Palisade Glacier? The first recorded ascent was in 1903 by Joseph LeConte, James Moffitt, James Hutchinson, and Robert Pike, who ascended the Southwest Slope . A classic moderate route.

First descended in 1934 by Norman CLyde, Hervey Voge and David Brower. Named by two guides at the Palisade School of Mountaineering in honor of their late director Larry Williams. Mt. There was about 30' vertical of uncomfortable climbing up 45-55 degree slopes in cracks or friction climbing. Glacier Notch is the start of the Swiss Arete and North Couloir routes.

Our group discussed other options until our very own Victor Jara was able to speak to a Ranger, confirming our suspicions that Split Mountain should probably be avoided. Sill North Couloir page FA 1938 by Spencer AUstin, Ruth Dyer, Ray Ingwersen, Richard Jones, and Joe Momyer. With Lucy, we began at the trailhead for Big Pine Creek North Fork.  Warm weather and in shorts, but carried snowshoes for snow expected as low as 9,000’, near Lon Chaney’s cabin.  At suggestion of fellow hiker we took a shortcut on the trail to Black Lake.  Much of the trail completely clear of snow until reaching 10,400’ where we set up camp. In early July, 2002, I think an ice axe would have been advisable for the chute directly below the summit ("Chute #1"), and crampons might have been necessary very early in the morning to climb the steep snow in the chute. I felt the onset of my typical mountain bronchitis as we began the day and no antibiotics in my kit to fix the problem.  Despite this, we made excellent time up to Glacier Notch, collecting our climbing gear on the way and headed up the snow field which filled the first two thirds of the couloir.  We did this short roped, moving together with Lucy in the lead.  She led well, but didn't realize until too late that we’d found ourselves front pointing up 40 degree ice below the notch that leads to the rock section of the climb. Start at Glacier Notch, ascend the L-shaped couloir to another notch. At this point there were about 4 gullies going straight up the side of Sill, NE. To egt to Elinore Lake, stay climbers left of the creek on a well defined use trail until you reach a large falls. He asked us if we had any medical experience and we shook our heads. Sill (Mt. It was at this point that any tip-toeing around the idea of not making summit completely left my mind. --RJ, Images Crampons wouldn't even enough to ease the "pain."
There are at least 10 established routes on the peak, ranging in difficulty from class 2/3 to 5.10. The GPX file provided includes several routes in which snow, ice axe & crampons are required.

For once, the first river crossing was safe because of low water levels and I made it to the first basin at Willow Lake in good time.  From there I followed the route up the left side of the stream that descends from the cirque between Gayley and Temple Crag.  At the first meadow I made a 90 degree left turn and headed up the stream that begins below Norman Clyde Peak and then over the top to Lake Elinore; unfortunately missing the small pond that sits 500’ above Elinore to the south and on the route I’d be using the next day.  So I spent the first night camped on the shores of Elinore, near where Lucy and I’d been in September, 1998.  No one about, and in fact I didn’t see another human until returning to the trailhead four days later.Â, Next morning I took the route from Lake Elinore up to Scimitar Pass.  I’d studied this Pass on numerous occasions: from the ground and in the books and maps, trying to figure it’s true difficulty and possible traps for a solo traveler.  As I discovered, the exposure is not extreme although the terrain is steep and difficult to negotiate, in particular a steep loose slope about halfway along the scimitar shaped ridge.  The slope closest to the ridge wall has been washed by melt from the permanent snowfield above.  Not only is this slope devoid of solid foot holds, but also is a loaded gun for rock fall - very big rocks!  Earlier in the season it’s probably covered in snow and easily negotiable with ax and crampons but at this time of year the only safe path is to swing wide to the south, accepting the steep rock hopping which is so much part of this Pass crossing.Â.

2204 miles away. The Dave K - Nov 13, 2002 8:02 pm - Voted 4/10 Route Comment. California, United States, North America Google Maps Loading... (this could take up to 30 seconds) Viewing: 1-7 of 7.

Traverse across the northwest face on loose class 3 ledges. The rest of the groups day would consist of a long slow walk back to the trail head while splitting their gear between two. Point taken, Romain -- it's hard to predict how someone will view a route.

It is easily seen from the town of Big Pine, the Sherwin grade north of Bishop, and the White and Inyo Mountains. We left our packs near the trail and started looking for a good place to make camp. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. From camp in Palisade basin we climbed to Potluck Pass. Calmly falling snowflakes filtered the view of Third lake and the forested slope above while I could hear the muffled sound of rushing water underneath the ice. That chute was class 2 the entire way. Its 14,153 foot peak soars over Big Pines Lakes and the the Palisade Glacier to the north east while all of Kings Canyon can be seen to the west. Viewed from below, an easier route becomes obvious, a sloping ledge which leads out to the south side of the bluff. The next day warm and windless.  Packed up and left camp early. We went back to camp almost the same way we came up.

There are many ways to get to Mount Sill, but most routes begin either from Glacier Lodge or South Lake. After passing the scary part, My brother traversed right to look into chute # 4 and found that we were level with the notch on the ridge at the top of chute #4 (~13740'). An altrenate trail from the backpackers parking follows a sunny slope and joins the trail above First Falls. Next day it was my intent to climb Mt. Spring and early summer can offer good travel conditions on South Fork approaches, as the copious talus is largely buried. Follow the crest past Mt. The Swiss Arête is composed of solid granite. Sill when the prize was within relatively easy access.  But more of that later. The trailhead is located at Glacier Lodge (7,600 ft). The eastern approach: From Big Pine on 395 drive up the road to Glacier Lodge, trailhead is signed on the right.


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